Hotel with a mission

CRANBROOK, B.C. -- The bar and lobby were where the classrooms were, the second floor had living quarters for the priests and nuns. The third floor, with the slanted ceilings and lookout window at the end of the hall, was where the students lived.

One part luxury hotel, one part history lesson, the St. Eugene Mission Resort is a must-see among the funky towns and ski resorts along the Powder Highway in southeast British Columbia.

"It has quite an interesting history," Wendy Van Puymbroeck, the resort's director of sales and marketing.

The St. Eugene Mission was built in 1910 as the first comprehensive Indian "Industrial and Residential" school in the Canadian west. Several former students, wanting to erase memories of the place, pushed for the building to be destroyed.

Instead, it became a resort, providing a source of income, employment and pride for the people of the Ktunaxa Nation.

Located near Cranbrook and surrounded by the Canadian Rockies, the St. Eugene has a golf course, a casino, 125 rooms, four restaurants and plenty of nearby outdoor activities, including Kimberley Alpine Resort just 20 minutes up the road.

The main building has 25 luxury rooms and is decorated with paintings and artifacts from the Ktunaxa Nation.

There's an interpretive centre within the hotel, a teepee and old Indian graveyard in back, and a golf pro shop in the nation's former barn.


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Garden a Dutch treat

The world's biggest spring garden is a visual feast based on this simple recipe: At the bottom of a big flower bed, place a layer of bulbs. Cover with soil. Repeat both steps twice.

At Holland's Keukenhof, they call it the lasagna method. Late-flowering tulips form the bottom layer. Next come mid-flowering ones, with early-bloomers closest to the surface. The lasagna method assures a continuous display of blooms during the nine weeks -- mid March to mid May -- that Keukenhof is open.

It requires a lot of bulbs -- 7 million each year -- all planted by hand. It's estimated each planter averages 140,000 bulbs per day, more than enough to make any weekend gardener's knees ache in sympathy. Of the 7 million, 4.5 million are tulips, Holland's most famous export. The rest mainly daffodils, hyacinth and crocus.

All are supplied by commercial bulb exporters, for whom the 32-hectare park near Amsterdam is a showcase.

What happens to the old bulbs? They're destroyed. Seems like a terrible waste, but Keukenhof staff say it's because growers want to display their newest varieties.

Several growers have kiosks where you can place an order. You can't take tulip bulbs with you -- it's the wrong season -- but there are lots of summer-flowering bulbs.

Keukenhof -- which means kitchen garden -- is much more than tulips. It's a lovely park, with ponds, fountains and meandering paths.

A recently renewed part of the park called the Bloemenbos is the setting for Ribbons of Flowers, 2-metre-wide borders planted with combinations of bulbs, perennials and early-flowering shrubs. It also contains seven "inspiration gardens'' that provide ideas for your own spaces.

Keukenhof may or may not be the most-photographed place in the world, a claim its promoters make, but I defy anyone carrying a camera to ignore a huge display called The River. Muscari Armeniacum (grape hyacinth) represent the water, and, in 2008 at least, they were bordered by Red Riding Hood tulips and white narcissi.

There are also permanent exhibition buildings for demonstrations and for shows in which points are awarded. I lusted after a tulip called White Heaven that scored more than 9 out of a perfect 10.

Competitions are also held for other perennials, including carnations, irises, and flowering shrubs such as viburnum and forsythia. A show on the 2008 calendar was described as the largest lily show in the world.

Most visitors content themselves with strolling the grounds. But there are tours available on old, flat-bottomed "whisper'' boats that pass fields where many of Keukenhof's flowers are cultivated.

Keukenhof is only 27 km from Amsterdam, from which half-day and full-day tours are available. You can also take public transit: Shuttle bus No. 58 travels between Schiphol train station and Keukenhof every 15 minutes.

Schiphol station, underneath Amsterdam's airport, is only 20 minutes from Amsterdam's central rail station. It can be reached directly by train from almost every city in the Netherlands and by international trains from Paris, Berlin and Brussels. Air travellers in transit who have a long enough layover at Schiphol Airport can do a tour to Keukenhof right from there. Visit keukenhof.nl or amsterdamtourist.nl.

Near Amsterdam, Keukenhof, left and below, is much more than a spring garden. It's also a lovely park, with ponds, fountains, meandering paths and special exhibitions.


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America's most romantic places

This Valentine's Day, 45 New York locations of fast-food chain White Castle will host a by-reservation-only candlelight dinner from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. for those in the mood for love--and steam-grilled sliders.

While fries and Formica table tops appeal to some, most romantics will be searching for something a bit more captivating this Feb. 14.

And since the annual day for doting falls on a Saturday this year, spending that weekend away never seemed so convenient. Indeed, romance is a major driver when it comes to taking a vacation. About 20% of all U.S. adults took a romantic trip in the past year, according to Washington, D.C.-based trade group U.S. Travel Association.

In Depth: America's Most Romantic Places To Visit

East Retreats

Florence Quinn, president and founder of New York travel and hospitality public relations firm Quinn & Co., says that when booking a weekend getaway, she and her husband's first choice is the Berkshires, a stretch of mountains and valleys in western Massachusetts.

The rural area is best known for its beautiful countryside mixed with highbrow culture. Along with the Taconic Mountains, Western New England Marble Valleys and Berkshire Highlands, the area is home to the Williamstown Theater Festival and outdoor concert venue Tanglewood, where the Boston Symphony Orchestra performs regularly in the summer.

"It's an ideal combination: natural beauty and sophistication," says Quinn.

Of course, Tanglewood and Williamstown offer more to visitors in the warm months, but resorts like the Cranwell and Wheatleigh, both in Lenox, Mass., are romantic year-long. Both properties resemble old English country estates, framed by lush forests.

At Wheatleigh, food takes center stage. For a romantic dinner, chef Jeffrey Thompson serves up dishes like Four Story Hill Farm veal served with parsnip, heirloom squash and blue-foot mushrooms (the tasting menu starts at $125; a room is $715 per night). The spa is the signature at Cranwell, where couples can indulge in duet--or his and her--massages. Treatments start at $115, rooms at $205 per night.

West Coast Options

While the Berkshires is among New England's most romantic destinations, the West Coast has plenty of points to choose from as well. Paris Permenter, publisher of romantic travel site Lovetripper.com, is a fan of the Sunset Bay Cruise in San Francisco ($45 per person).

"The view of the city at dusk and the Golden Gate Bridge with the sunset behind it really defines a romantic setting," says Permenter. Included with the cruise, of course, is Champagne.

Another attractive option, perhaps the day after the cruise, is a drive down California's Highway 1 to Big Sur, about two and half hours from San Francisco, which offers yet another breathtaking view, this time of rocky ocean cliffs hugged by pine and cypress trees. Arguably the best way to enjoy the scenery--particularly the McWay waterfalls--is to take a trek down the Overlook Trail in Julia Pfeiffer State Park. The walk is about a quarter mile long and 80 feet above sea level.

Farther north, but still near the coast, is the Hoh Rain Forest in Washington's Olympic National Park. Teri Citterman, editor of The Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest, says that while the sky may be gray and the weather damp in this part of the country, the rain forest still attracts with its enchanting moss-filled curtains, waterfalls and trails. She calls it a Northwest version of the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.

"This is a rugged, rocky, lush, enchanting forest," says Citterman. Set up camp at the Lost Mountain Lodge, which offers several romantic-getaway packages that include extras such as his-and-hers aromatherapy spa treatments, Champagne and chocolates. (Room rates start at $185 per night.)

Sun and Sand

Appealing as cozying up in a drizzly climate might sound, some still believe that there's nothing more romantic than clear skies, white sand and blue water. More still might look at Valentine's Day's falling on a weekend the perfect excuse to make a bit more of a getaway.

St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands is a good option, says John Bigley, co-publisher of romantic travel Web site Lovetripper.com. Locals call it the "love city," he says, and he believes it's easy to see why.

"It has plenty of quiet hideaways for couples to enjoy," he says. "Even a stretch of sand with the perfect name: Honeymoon Beach." Round-trip tickets from New York to St. Thomas--a 15-minute ferry ride away from St. John--currently start at about $500.

Whether it's a day trip or a full weekend away that you're considering for celebrating Valentine's Day, just remember that if it's true love, some candlelight and White Castle sliders might be more than enough considering current economic conditions.

That is, so long as you promise a trip to one of those other places next year.

In Depth: America's Most Romantic Places To Visit


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Always next year

Quebec City reeled in tourists by the hundreds of thousands in 2008 as it pulled off a tremendous string of celebratory feats for its year-long, 400th birthday bash.

The plan for year No. 401? Avoid the hangover.

In 2008, the fortified city overlooking the St. Lawrence River lured visitors to watch the planet's largest multimedia exhibition on a 600-metre-long projection surface.

Thousands more streamed through the local fine arts museum, where 250 carefully selected works from Paris' illustrious Louvre were on display.

And close to half a million partiers shook the Plains of Abraham at separate concerts headlined by knighted rock hero Paul McCartney and homegrown pop star Celine Dion.

Really, how could any town ever expect to top all that?

According to the local tourism department, the city, which long ago elbowed onto top 10 lists of North America's best destinations, won't have to.

"People like to come here," said Daniel Gagnon, the department's communications director.

"They liked it before 2008 and they will like it in 2009."

TOURIST BUCKS

Gagnon admits 2009 won't stir up the same tourist bucks as last year, but he said there are still plenty of activities to attract out-of-towners.

"I think it will be possible to maintain the buzz," he said.

The region's tourism industry hopes so, too.

Thanks to the anniversary party, business at Quebec City hotels shot up by 11% last year, said Brian Aube, general manager of the Quebec Region Hotel Association.

"We had a great 2008, so we can't complain about that," said Aube, whose organization represents 95% of the hotels in and around Quebec City.

This year, local hoteliers are hoping the region's long-standing bread-and-butter attractions -- most of which are tied to history, religion and romance -- will lure visitors from the nearby markets of New England, Ontario and the Maritimes.

He said people generally stay closer to home during tough economic times, a fact that Quebec City aims to take advantage of -- especially if fuel prices remain low.

The city's tourism department even launched a major ad campaign geared for the university crowds in Boston, which is about 600 km south of Quebec City.

Organizers wooed young adrenalin addicts with events such as the rough-and-tumble Red Bull Crashed Ice downhill ice-skating race on Jan. 24 and February's Snowboard Jamboree.

"We hope to still attract people who didn't have time to come and see us in 2008," Aube said.

"Quebec City really made itself beautiful for our tourists last year."

The area is renowned for its wintry offerings, including ski hills, the iconic Carnaval de Quebec and stunning ice hotel.

But Aube said the region is also known for its popular summer festival, the Village Vacances Valcartier water park, the rich history of Old Quebec and the 350-year-old shrine in nearby Ste-Anne-de-Beaupre.

To keep the 400th birthday momentum rolling, the city allocated $8.5 million of its 2009 budget to produce free events throughout the year.

CELEBRATION FUNDS

In 2008, with the help of the provincial and federal governments, the city had $90 million of celebration funds at its disposal.

Quebec City Mayor Regis Labeaume hopes this year's cash will be enough to ensure that legions of camera-toting, fanny-pack-wearing tourists will continue to trot in from around the globe.

Labeaume said recently the anniversary pulled the capital city out of a gloomy era that had lingered since its beloved NHL team, the Nordiques, moved out of town in 1995.

Gagnon said the city plans to bring back a new version of Robert Lepage's "Image Mill," the wildly popular outdoor multimedia show that was beamed onto the side of 81 grain silos every night at the harbourfront.

Quebec City Tourism estimates 600,000 people took in Lepage's exhibition, which rolled sights and sounds from the city's colourful history into a 40-minute production.

Gagnon said it's too early to discuss the coming year's other big-ticket projects, but is convinced they will help the city remain a top vacation spot in 2009.

"It will be difficult for us, as it will be for everybody, but I think we have more to offer than many other cities," he said.


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If these walls could talk

Plantations were once as common in the Caribbean as tourists are today. Aside from the cotton, sugar, spices and other commodities they produced, each industry left its own architectural landmark.

Over the years, some have disappeared, others are in ruins. A few, however, remain intact or have been restored in recognition of their historic value, and are open to visitors. Here's a sample:

JAMAICA

Though Rose Hall is perhaps the best-known great house in Jamaica, another nearby property -- Greenwood Great House -- is equally, if not more, impressive.

The Georgian-style home was the residence of the Barrett family of Wimpole St., London (Richard Barrett was a cousin of poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning). The Barretts had come to Jamaica in the 1660s and made a fortune with sugarcane plantations. By the mid-18th century, the family owned 33,000 hectares of land and 2,000 slaves.

The great house was built between 1780 and 1800, and mainly used for recreation and entertaining. It contains, according to a brochure, the "largest authentic antique collection in the Caribbean." The Jamaican government recognized its importance by declaring it a National Heritage Site.

Current owners Bob and Ann Betton live in the 15- room home, which they've opened up to the public as a museum. On display is the original Barrett family library containing books dating back to 1697, antique furniture, rare maps of Jamaica, family portraits, Wedgwood china made specially for the family, rare musical instruments, and a collection of coaches, which are housed in the stables.

From the verandah, with its stunning view of the sea, Bob Betton maintains you can see the curvature of the earth.

Greenwood is part way up a hill on a gravel road on the north coast, east of Montego Bay and open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. For more, call Greenwood at 876-953-1077.

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

Sugarcane once covered almost every inch of arable land on St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands For more than two centuries, until the 1960s, enslaved and later free African American labourers toiled on these plantations. One of them, Whim Plantation, surveyed in 1733, has been restored and is one of the best places today to explore the remains of bygone days when sugar was king.

The main attraction of this National Historic Site is the elegant great house, built in 1760 at a time when Denmark owned St. Croix. The oval-shaped home, with walls nearly a metre-thick and 4-metre-high ceilings in its three interior rooms, was built of cut brain coral, limestone and rubble bonded with a mortar containing molasses.

Most of the antiques on display were purchased from or donated by island families.

There are about 20 points of interest at the site including a stone mail box, cookhouse, domestic quarters, sugar grinding mills, garden, library and archives, and a watch house where someone guarded the crop from fires and theft, and kept a lookout for runaway slaves.

Whim Plantation is open Mondays to Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m (November through April) and Mon. to Fri. from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. (May through October). See stcroixlandmarks.com.

GRENADA

One of the highlights of a trip to Grenada is the chance to visit a working spice plantation, such as the historic Dougaldston Spice Estate.

Grenada is often called "the spice island" and most of the island's spices -- nutmeg, mace, cocoa, cloves, allspice -- are grown here. Just south of Gouyave in St. John, the site includes traditional clapboard buildings with tin-roofs.

At one time, 200 people were employed here, now only about a dozen remain.

Spices are still dried the traditional way on racks, which are wheeled under the building if it rains. A worker will gladly tell you about the spices and explain the process.

While in the area, check out the Gouyave Nutmeg Processing Co-operative. Here you can see all the stages of production including drying, grading, separating of the nutmeg and mace, and packing.

Dougaldston Spice Estate is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mon. to Fri., and 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sat. For more, see grenadagrenadines.com.

ANGUILLA

Notable as one of the island's oldest homes -- and reportedly the only surviving plantation house in Anguilla -- Wallblake Plantation House dates from 1787, a time when both sugar and cotton were produced here.

It's believed the home, with its spacious rooms, wooden roof and shuttered windows, was built by a planter named Will Blake (Wallblake is possibly a corruption of his name). The entire complex of buildings including the kitchen, stable and workers quarters have survived intact. It was fully restored in 2004.

The site is maintained by the Wallblake House Management Committee and used for special events. Tours are offered Mon., Wed. and Fri. from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. See wallblake.ai.


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Wallet-friendly attractions

ATLANTA -- Hoping the prospect of sales will woo travellers, U.S. tourist destinations are taking a page from the retail playbook, offering tourists deep discounts and freezing gate prices.

They include free nights at Walt Disney World in Florida, coupons worth $15 off at Pennsylvania's Hershey Park and admission to the Georgia Aquarium, the world's largest fish tank, all at last year's prices. The markdowns are enough to make even the most frugal traveller think twice about staying home.

"Given so many people have lost their jobs and aren't getting raises and aren't getting bonuses, it did not seem appropriate to do a price increase this year," said Dave Santucci, spokesman for the aquarium in Atlanta.

A ticket at the aquarium will cost the same this year as it did last -- $27 US for adults. Visit once, and you get a "bounce pass" to return any time that year for $15. And the aquarium is brokering deals with surrounding attractions like the World of Coca-Cola to offer combination tickets at discount prices.

It couldn't come at a better time. America's tourism industry hasn't seen a year this bad since just after the Sept. 11, 2001, attacks, when hotel occupancy dropped 16% over the prior year, said Jan Freitag, v-p of Smith Travel Research, which follows the hotel industry. Hotel occupancy dropped 10% from November 2007 to the same month in 2008. "It's not pretty right now, from the hotel perspective."

At Walt Disney World near Orlando, Fla., visitors can save $400 US off the price of a seven-night stay between February and the end of June. The deal -- being touted as "buy four nights, get three free" -- can be booked through the end of March, said Rick Sylvain, spokesman for the resort.

Walt Disney World advertised the discount more heavily than usual in hopes of drawing families during typically slow times at the attraction, Sylvain said.

Hershey Park, a zoo and amusement park next to the chocolate company's headquarters, is offering one of the steepest coupons in its 102-year history -- $15 off the $51.95 admission, said spokesman Kathy Burrows.

Some attractions, like Silver Dollar City in Branson, Mo., are teaming up with hotels and other attractions to offer discounts on package deals to tourists who travel to the retiree Mecca for a few days. And many attractions -- like Sea World in Florida and the San Diego Zoo -- are freezing the price of their annual passes, a small gift to visitors faithful enough to come back more than once a year.

'LOYAL CUSTOMERS'

"These are our most loyal customers," said Joe Couceiro, spokesman for Busch Entertainment Corp., which owns 10 theme parks from Florida to Pennsylvania, including Sea World and Busch Gardens.

For parents like Amber Barrow, discounts are welcome news when she's trying to entertain three children on a trip. The Barrows stopped at the Georgia Aquarium recently -- with Joseph, 3, David, 1, and Hannah, 4 months.

Despite the economic downturn, "we still have to do stuff with our kids," Barrow said as she watched the beluga whales do flips and turns. "I think with the economy, attractions are going to have to offer discounts unless they don't want business. People aren't going to go if prices go up."

For details on deals, contact the Georgia Aquarium at georgiaaquarium.com; Walt Disney World at disneyworld.disney.go.com and Hershey Park at hersheypark.com/index.php.


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Hotel deals in 10 hotspots

When it comes to 2009's hottest travel destinations, think cheap--but not chintzy.

To keep visitors coming, top-shelf destinations no longer have top-shelf price tags. This year, four- and five-star hotels are offering unprecedented deals at in-demand spots like Cape Town, Belfast and Vancouver.

In Depth: Hotel Deals In 10 Travel Hot Spots

According to booking site Hotels.com's quarterly Hotel Price Index, the cost of hotel accommodations decreased by 3% globally in the last three months of 2008. And average daily rates for Jan. 1, 2009, were down significantly in several major U.S. cities, according to another booking site, Travelocity.com. In San Francisco, rates were down 15% from Jan. 1, 2008; in Las Vegas, the rate decrease was 18%.

"For the first time in my career, [high-net-worth travelers] are focused more on the deal than the experience," says Jack Ezon, president of leisure travel for New York-based agency Ovation Vacations. In other words, travelers are looking for the best prices first and considering the destination second.

Just last week, Ezon sold one week in hotspot Riviera Maya, Mexico for $7,000. The suite booked usually runs $3,000 per night, which means this guest received a nearly 67% discount on his or her holiday.

Sure, the tropical forests, view of the Caribbean Sea and seven restaurants at Riviera Maya are nice, but the best part about staying in a Mandarin Oriental hotel is the highly lauded service and amenities, which include private yoga and Pilates sessions as well as culinary classes that teach local food traditions.

Usually rooms in this spot rarely rent below $700, but right now John Clifford, owner of San Diego-based booking firm InternationalTravelManagement.com says rates start at just $445 a night.

Shorter Excursions
While "staycation," or taking a break at home rather than away, might have been last year's buzzword, Clifford says that in 2009, travelers who can't head to far-away destinations for a week or more are likely to opt for nearby getaways instead of remaining couch-bound. But they'll want to go to places that still feel different from home.

One place that fits the bill is Austin, Texas, which offers great discounts matched with an energetic atmosphere, says Clifford. "It's the coolest city in Texas," he says, noting Austin's numerous music venues, indie film theaters and art galleries.

Austin also offers upscale clothing boutiques like By George (which sells high-fashion favorites including Lanvin and Proenza Schouler), as well as pampering--like the Lake Austin Spa Resort--for those who'd rather indulge in a full-body massage than pork ribs.

There's recreation for pretty much anyone in this vibrant city. Just know that during Austin's annual South by Southwest music festival, which takes place March 13-22, 2009, deals--even available rooms--are scarce for that week.

However, if you're willing to set up camp about an hour outside of the city's downtown area, the 7,000-acre Horseshoe Bay in Texas' Hill Country is offering a special package for a family of four, valid from March 1 through May 21, 2009. Room rates start at $400 per night and include a $200 resort credit that can be used for golf, dining and other activities. Guests also receive a 20% golf discount, 20% spa discount and daily breakfast.

Great Deals, but Great Distances
For honeymooners, the South Pacific is, and always will be, hot, says Vicki Seltzer, a travel expert at Philadelphia's Monarchetravel.com. Right now, that has a lot to do with the great deals offered in spots across Australia, New Zealand and Tahiti. The only caveat, however, is the long travel times from the U.S. and, especially, Europe.

"It'll remain tremendously popular, especially now that the dollar is stronger," says Seltzer. As of Jan. 21, the U.S. dollar equals over AUD1.5 and NZD1.9. Six months ago, the U.S. dollar equaled just AUD1 and NZD1.3. That means your dollar will stretch significantly further in both countries than it did only recently.

For example, Waiheke Island's Delamore Lodge, a short ferry ride from Auckland, New Zealand, is offering several packages, including a mid-week special available through the end of February 2009.

While the tight timing might not be ideal for some, those looking for a last-minute getaway will get quite the bargain. For $900, a duo can enjoy two nights in a luxury suite that would normally costs $1,160 for the same arrangement, as well as pre-dinner drinks and canapés along with gourmet breakfast each morning.

The caveat, however, is that round-trip tickets from LAX to Auckland in the month of February don't come cheap. The cheapest we found were $1,155 with a departure on Febr. 24. However, most flights started at $1,900.

Travel bargains come and go, but right now at least, the hotel discounts are steeper than they've been in a long time. To get the best deal, however, it's important to be a little less fussy about where it is you actually want to go. Our experts concur that this year traveling is less about the destination and more about the deal.

"These days, travelers aren't asking, 'Where's the best place to suit my personality?'" says Ezon. "It's more like, 'What's best place to suit my pocketbook?'"

In Depth: Hotel Deals In 10 Travel Hot Spots


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