Our tour group is examining petroglyphs carved into the steep sandstone cliffs in Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, in southern Alberta. Archeologists say they were created by aboriginal people, mainly from the Blackfoot tribe, anywhere from a few hundred years ago to a few thousand. Some First Nations people believe the artists were spirits.
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Writing-on-Stone contains 50 sites with roughly 1,000 petroglyphs and pictographs — painted images. This is said to be the largest concentration of rock art on the North American Plains. Eroded by wind and rain, this ancient art is best viewed in the company of one of the park interpreters, all of whom are First Nations.
Our guide, Juanita, told us the carvings might have represented something seen during a vision quest, a ritual some of her people still perform.
There are guided tours daily at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Summer temperatures can hit 40 C, so carry water. Juanita recommended drinking one cup every 20 minutes.
Our tour didn’t include the most elaborate set of carvings, called the Battle Scene, but you can reach it on your own. Pick up an information sheet and map at the interpretive centre first.
For a different perspective of the park, float along the Milk River with Ken Brown, a retired teacher who’s been doing rafting trips for 25 years.
The Milk begins and ends in Montana, but makes a 373-km swing through Canada in between.
We cover a mere 11 km, and the current is so lazy Ken has to row most of the way. Lifejackets are worn but it’s comforting to know the depth ranges from ankle- to neck-deep. Steep sandstone banks rise on either side. Beyond, on the Montana side, are the Sweetgrass Hills.
Sandpipers and swallows dart in and out of nests. Hoodoos, mushroom-shaped stone features, are plentiful.
Ken points out a vision quest site, a painted thunderbird, and a reconstruction of a Northwest Mounted Police barracks.
Trips run from Victoria Day weekend through Labour Day, and range in duration from two to six hours. If it’s hot, a good option would be a two-hour one starting at 6 p.m. Phone Milk River Rafting at 403-647-3586.
The history and culture of the Blackfoot who camped at Writing-on-Stone centuries ago are impressively displayed at Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park, minutes south of the Trans Canada Highway.
The interpretive centre has four areas, titled Creation, Survival, Celebration and Storytelling. Using interactive devices you can learn the Blackfoot names for animals, or all the ways a bison can be utilized, or record your voice in the Blackfoot language. Children can create a tipi out of paper or learn to make shields and drums.
Free powwow dance demonstrations are done Saturdays snd Sundays as part of the admission price. Guided and self-guided tours can be done inside and outside.
The centre overlooks a valley where the Blackfoot and the Crown signed a major treaty in 1877. An archeological dig is conducted there from mid May through June.
Blackfoot Crossing is 100 km east of Calgary. Visit blackfootcrossing.ca or phone 1-888-654-6274.
More information
— Campgrounds are available at Goldsprings Community Park in Milk River (milkriver.ca/tourism) and at Writing-on-Stone (reserve through the provincial system, albertaparks.ca, or phone 1-866-427-3582).
— Tipis can be rented at Blackfoot Crossing.
— I used two B&Bs: Horse N Hounds Hotel near Coutts, where dogs are welcome (CouttsCrossing.com) and the upscale Lakeshore Spa B&B, south of Brooks (alakeshorebb.com).
— For more, visitcanadianbadlands.com.
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