Sunday, August 9, 2009

Romancing the Rhine

We had only one day, but what a magnificent 24 hours it was. And we were determined to eke out every little bit of exquisite pleasure that we could from this majestic experience aboard the five-star Premicon Queen.

The complete Romantic Rhine cruise is five days, so leave your stress at the dock as you embark at Cologne, Germany, and indulge fully in this delicious escape until disembarking at Basel, Switzerland.

It was 8 a.m. and our day was our oyster. No sooner did we board at Koblenz then we were off to the wellness and fitness spa, and right into the pampering -- whirlpool with a view, and a Kneipp's therapeutic hot and cold foot bath, aaah what luxury. Hmmm, what to do next? A 10 a.m. Tai Chi lesson, image advice at 11, maybe a massage later?

Not to miss a thing, we sprang from the whirlpool realizing we had 20 minutes to get changed into our street clothes. Disembarking the ship for a stopover in Boppard was essential. Staff provided us with maps and a recommendation to head three streets up where we'd find the town's lovely, half-timbered dwellings.

Our snippet visit was short but magnificent and so memorable. The many other excursions are considerably longer and organized if you wish.

Back onboard, at 2:15 p.m. all were invited for a glass of Riesling Sekt on the Sky Deck while the Loreley song was performed under a warm Rhine sun. The sweet melody filled the air, contrasting with the torrid tale of the mythical siren, Loreley, who distracted seamen to their demise.

A couple, perhaps on their honeymoon, embraced and toasted at the railing as we passed the notorious sheer cliff.

It's impossible not to be swept away and enchanted by the Romantic Rhine's beauty, endlessly repeating cliches.

The rest of the afternoon is spent marvelling at the spectacular moving scenery serenely gliding by. A stage set of castle after castle. We have an infinite choice of front row seats, whether on a deck chair sipping champagne, or enjoying a gourmet meal in the restaurant with its panoramic windows on three sides, or lazing in the whirlpool eye level to the river's edge, or stretched out on your bed facing the panorama, caressed by a soft breeze from open sliding doors that are part of each suite's expansive stretch of windows.

This 65 km of Upper Middle Rhine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has been the inspiration for poets. Legendary, medieval fortresses, quaint villages and heritage vineyards precariously perch on bucolic, steep banks. Echoes of a rich history are endless -- of the Celts, the Romans who brought winemaking to the region, and the French who plundered their way up the river.

At 5 p.m., we dock at idyllic Rudesheim, where we wend our way through its hilly, picturesque streets to a wine-tasting. The ship departs at midnight and makes quick time through the night to the next port.

Ship cruise life is special, but this is the jewel in the crown. Forget the anti-nausea medication, this gently gliding hotel, built in Germany in 2008, is a spacious, vibrationless gem. Indeed we were royally spoiled, every request and need was graciously seen to by a professional crew of 60, attending to a maximum of 106 passengers.

Soon it's morning and time to depart at Mannheim. If one day can have such an impact, imagine how five days of absolute bliss would feel. I wonder if anyone has ever had to be dragged off the ship, refusing to leave.

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The Kaiser Wilhelm 1 colossal monument looms over the Deutsches Eck (German corner) in Koblenz, at the junction of the Rhine and the Mosel rivers. The original 1897 statue was blown up in World War 11 by the United States artillery, leaving it badly damaged. Apparently the statue's head was found in a junk yard. It was rebuilt in 1993.

Our delightful guide, Ulrich Helsper, recited his tongue-in-cheek poem about the statue's convoluted past. This is a line from his witty work: "Then occurred some bad mishap -- My horse and I were sold for scrap."

In the distance across the river is Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, the "Gibraltar of the North." The first reference to it is in the year 1000. It was besieged several times by the French. There is a cable car, and it's worth the view and visit. Beethoven's mother was born in the village below.

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COLOGNE Day 1:

Depart 10 p.m.

KOBLENZ

Day 2 8 a.m. - 9 a.m.

stopover

RUDESHEIM

Stopover, 5 p.m. to midnight. We are taken for an entertaining wine-tasting excursion at Grunen Kranz's grotto set on a narrow street in the beautiful village of Rudesheim, which is known for more than just its wonderful Asbach brandy. There is a cable car that floats above the village surrounded by vineyards

BOPPARD

12:15 - 12:45 p.m.

A half-hour excursion allows for a brief look at this precious little town

MANNHEIM

Day 3

8 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Day excursion to Heidelberg and Speyer

KEHL - BREISACH

Days 4 & 5:

12:30 p.m. - 5 a.m.

Day excursions to Strasbourg and Colmar in France

BASEL Day 6: 8 a.m.

Disembark

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IF YOU GO

Cruising on the Premicon Queen

Excursions

Organized shore excursions include Heidelberg, Speyer, and Alsace, France, where there are visits to Strasbourg and Colmar, to name a few. Maps are available onboard and the concierge will offer suggestions and organize arrangements for the day-long excursions.

More information

- Our five-day Rhine cruise started in Cologne, Germany, and ended in Basel, Switzerland. The 2010 itinerary is available.

- Besides Rhine cruises (April to end of July), there are journeys on the Danube (starting in August), three-river cruises and winter cruises, with one over Christmas and New Year's. Winter trips are cheaper.

- Laptops can be borrowed.

- Digital images can be reviewed in your room.

- Visit premiconqueen.com.

- For information on travel to all parts of Germany, visit the German National Tourist Office website at cometogermany.com

GETTING THERE

- Lufthansa has frequent flights to many German destinations. Visit lufthansa.com.

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