Bookends to paradise

TAHITI, French Polynesia -- The itinerary reads like the script of a daydream: Two days at the laidback Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, island hop around French Polynesia aboard the luxe Silver Shadow, sail around the Hawaiian Islands, then rest up at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua on Maui before flying home.

Silversea Cruise's literature for the 10-night sailing with pre-cruise and post-cruise hotel stays promises an extraordinary journey -- the ultimate romantic voyage. Or in my case, the ultimate "ro-tic" voyage -- romantic without the man, who is unable to accompany me due to previous commitments.

The lure of exotic explorations is too good to pass up despite the absence of my significant other. The solution: Take a gal pal. There may not be dancing under the stars but there are still plenty of thrilling experiences to make a heart skip a beat or two.

These include exploring the remote islands of Rangiroa and Nuka Hiva, sailing across the equator, touring Volcanoes National Park on Hawaii's Big Island, making a pilgrimage to Pearl Harbor memorials on Oahu and hitting the high elevations of Haleakala National Park on Maui.

* * *

French Polynesia has always been high on my "go to" list. Once difficult to reach, it still enjoys an "end of the earth" mystique.

The Intercontinental Tahiti does not disappoint. Recently renovated, it's typically Tahitian -- palm trees fringe the beach, the infinity pool has a sand bottom and swim-up bar, the open air Tiare restaurant provides poolside dining with ocean views. Our room has a balcony and looks across turqouise waters to Moorea. Every afternoon guests can watch staff feed colourful tropical fish at the Lagoonarium. Some days there are cultural presentations.

The new Deep Nature Spa by Algotherm (opened since our visit) features Polynesian Hei Poa and Tahitian Wave massage, plus seaweed wraps and marine body scrubs.

We dine with new friends at the resort's Lotus restaurant in an over-water palapa. The service is seamless. The open air setting is magical. The meal is memorable. I could stay forever but Silver Shadow awaits at the dock in Papeete.

* * *

If a ship that measures 186 metres long, weighs 25,635 metric tonnes and carries 382 passengers can be considered "small," then the Silver Shadow gets my nomination for the title "Tiny Perfect Cruise Ship."

The "tiny" designation is in comparison to the mega-liners plying the waters today. Some of these floating cities weigh 10 times more and carry 6,000 passengers and a couple of thousand crew. Passengers face rush-hour traffic jams at the buffet and theme-park- style lineups to disembark.

Still, there are some who revel in the carnival-like atmosphere of a really big ship. These leviathans do create a buzz when they sail into ports large enough to handle them.

But my tastes have always run more to low key sophistication and off the beaten path exploration so this "small" ship is more my style. For all it's "smallness," Silver Shadow is actually one of the larger vessels in Silversea's five-ship fleet, which includes a new expedition ship, Prince Albert II, that carries 132 passengers.

What truly makes her "perfect" is -- apart from kitschy things like boxing rings -- Silver Shadow has all the essentials of a large ship but on a human scale.

The spacious cabins -- most with verandas for watching the world go by -- are immaculately kept by attentive stewards who stock the minibar with your favourite libations -- everthing from Champagne to Scotch. (Alcohol and gratuities are covered on this all-inclusive line.)

There are three restaurants, a fitness centre, a spa, a library, a show lounge and a casino. All are less than five minutes' walk from anywhere on the ship.

The swimming pool and whirlpools are seldom crowded. And there's a level of old world service befitting a five-star luxury cruise line.

Silver Shadow is kept shipshape under the watchful eye of Captain Angelo A. Corsaro, who also updates passengers on sea conditions, the ship's progress and ports of call.

Cruise Director Helga Reiss plays the role of gracious hostess. Passengers seem to be naturally drawn to Reiss, an outgoing Newfoundlander with a melodious speaking voice.

A classically trained pianist, Reiss turned to singing after an injury forced her to give up the piano. An adherent of the "when one door shuts, another opens," philosophy, Reiss says she "ran away to sea" like her Norwegian grandfather before her, and found a new career as a singer and cruise director. She has performed with jazz greats Oscar Peterson and Charlie Biddle and performed for the Royal Family.

Since joining Silversea, her show, Big Time, has become a passenger favourite that allows her to showcase her considerable singing talents.

After calling at Rangiroa and Nuka Hiva, Silver Sea sails for Hawaii. There isn't much between French Polynesia and the Hawaiian Islands except endless vistas of Pacific Ocean. People new to cruising worry they might be bored on sea days. But more than a dozen cruises has taught me to cherish this special time suspended between here and there.

Sea days are for sleeping late, soaking up sunshine, having a massage, catnapping between chapters of a murder mystery, relaxing over afternoon tea, watching the sunset from your veranda and indulging in a beautiful dinner -- dessert and all.

One afternoon, there is some general silliness on the pool deck as Silver Shadow crosses the equator and passengers pay their due to Neptune. Each of us is awarded a handsome certificate and we enjoy an unearned sense of accomplishment.

After four days at sea, we dock in Hawaii. By now, the ship feels like home and disembarking feels like work, but then we imagine the discoveries that await on the Big Island, Oahu and Maui.

* * *

A few days later, saying goodbye to Silver Shadow proves to be hard but saying hello to the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua turns out to be a welcome transition from sea to land.

The lush grounds of the beautifully renovated resort resemble a botanical garden. Our room is spacious and tastefully decorated. The three-tier pool is calling.

There are activities for everyone -- everything from golf to the new children's program, Ambassadors of the Environment. Launched with Jean-Michel Cousteau, it includes rainforest hikes, reef snorkelling and underwater photo sessions all designed to teach about Hawaii's ecosystems.

As we bid farewell to Maui, it occurs to me that my vision of French Polynesia has always been of oceans and beaches while Hawaii sparked images of palm trees and fiery-hot volcanoes. Now, it is people and colours that come to mind: A collage of friendly locals greeting Silver Shadow in every port, a riot of blooms growing wild, a shifting palette of Pacific blues, inky black lava and the gold-red hues of Haleakala.

Silversea calls this a cruise. I call it heaven.

---

BOTTOM LINE

SOUTH PACIFIC

Silversea Cruises specializes in unique voyages to exotic destinations. In 2009, Silver Shadow will visit French Polynesia twice: First on a 16-day sailing from Los Angeles to Papeete, departing from L.A. on March 7, and later on a cruise from Papeete to Sydney, Australia, departing March 23 from Tahiti.

SILVER SAVINGS

Silversea Cruises has some very enticing offers this year. These include up to 50% off select cruises, free and specially priced airfare, and a $1,000 onboard credit that can be used for shore excursions, spa treatments, etc. In addition, all three offers are available on some cruises. See silversea.com/enticing for details.

MORE INFORMATION

For Silversea Cruises information, see silversea.com or your travel agent. For more on the Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, see intercontinental.com. For the Ritz Carlton Kapalua, see ritzcarlton.com.


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Beach setting for resort wedding

The wedding guests sat on chairs covered in white on the beach, facing the vivid blue-green waters of the Caribbean instead of an altar or stained-glass windows.

Some wore short-sleeved shirts and dress shorts. Nearby was a basket with a sign reading "shoes optional.'' It was pretty much full.

This was my first experience with a Mexican resort wedding. A kind soul at the Azul Beach Hotel, near Cancun, noticed I was dining alone and invited me to join their table.

They were from British Columbia and were there for a wedding. I ate with them the next evening, , and ended up meeting most of the wedding party, including the bride, who insisted I attend the nuptials.

That's how I came to be sitting, slathered in sunscreen, while Katharine, a Brit, and Liam, a Canadian, stood waiting to become man and wife.

It was a civil ceremony, conducted in Spanish with another woman translating everything into English.

It was pretty dry stuff, until Katherine and Liam exchanged vows that sounded like they'd written them themselves. It was those heartfelt expressions of love and hope that made the event intensely personal, and had some reaching for their tissues.

Hotel staff had cordoned off a stretch of beach before the ceremony. Swimsuit-clad resort guests watched from the sidelines. Some even snapped photos.

Louis Armstrong's version of It's a Wonderful World came over the sound system. A little mop-haired boy solemnly distributed flower petals for guests to toss when the time came.

Dark clouds moved in, a few drops fell, and plans for post- wedding drinks on the beach were quickly shifted under cover.

Weddings -- and such followups as anniversary celebrations and renewals of vows -- are a huge business at sun-destination resorts.

One advantage is obvious -- a combined wedding and honeymoon for the bride and groom, a holiday for the guests.

Katherine gave me other reasons for flying thousands of kilometres to say her "I do's'' in a foreign country.

It equalized, to some extent, the distance the guests had to travel. Katherine's mom and dad live in England and Liam's mother lives in France, but there was a large contingent from B.C.

And it relieved Katherine's elderly parents of having to host guests and show them around, something she said they would felt obliged to do had the wedding been held in Britain.

She and Liam picked the Azul Beach because it is small -- a 97-room all-inclusive -- and has a policy of holding only one wedding a day.

Couples interested in a sun- destination wedding can deal with a resort directly or use one of the major Canadian tour operators. They offer discounts for group bookings and some have resort partners that will do the wedding for nothing if a certain number of rooms is booked. A travel agent can steer you in the right direction.

Presentations

Novack's Talks With Travellers, 7 p.m., Monday, 211 King St., London. Yosemite & San Francisco, with James Cowie.

What's new in Britain

- A skeleton of a Tyrannosaurus Rex is among the exhibits at the new Great North Museum opening this spring in Newcastle upon Tyne. Local interest will be represented by an interactive model of Hadrian's Wall. The museum will be open daily and admission will be free. Visit www.greatnorthmuseum.org.

- A 65-metre-long sprayed concrete "cocoon'' housing millions of insect and plant specimens will be the architectural highlight of the Darwin Centre, which opens at the Natural History Museum in London, England, in September. The museum is open daily and admission is free. Visit www.nhm.ac.uk.


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Treasure Coast lives up to name

Celebs' favourite places on Earth

WASHINGTON - A new book from National Geographic asks celebrities to name their favourite places in the world, and the answers range from Nepal to Brooklyn.

Destinations mentioned in the book, called "My Favorite Place on Earth," include Jerusalem, mentioned by actress Natalie Portman, who was born there; Arud, in Bali, Indonesia, named by travel guru Arthur Frommer; Kauai, Hawaii, listed by Matt Groening, creator of "The Simpsons"; Runyon Canyon Park in Los Angeles, where dogs can walk off-leashed, named by dog whisperer Cesar Millan; Trinidad, the choice of basketball legend Kareem Abdul-Jabbar, whose grandparents emigrated from the island; and Monument Valley on the border of Arizona and Utah, chosen by George Lucas, "Star Wars" creator, who spent time there as a young man making a short abstract film.

Nepal was chosen by Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler, and Brooklyn was named by fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi. But not the Brooklyn Bridge or Coney Island or any of the other tourist attractions in the famous New York City borough. No, the Brooklyn mentioned by Mizrahi was a garage in the Midwood neighbourhood where he staged puppet shows. Mizrahi lived in a house there as a child and created a theatre using the rusted frame of a swing set. He carved his own marionettes from wood, painted them, made costumes with glitter and feathers, and even composed and tape-recorded his own music. "It was a precursor of the work I do now," he said.



Hog wild for St. Kitts
Mitsubishi’s Outlander GT Prototype readying for New York Launch

Treasure Coast lives up to name

SEBASTIAN INLET, Fla. -- From the boardwalk behind the McClarty Museum, I could see on the beach below, a man moving about with a metal detector.

I suspected he was not looking for a ring or a bracelet dropped by a vacationer. He was probably hoping to find a gold doubloon or maybe some silver pieces-of-eight dating from the early 18th century.

Such treasures are still being found on the beaches of this barrier island. But it's out to sea a little bit, just past the submerged reef, that the real treasure lies: Gold, silver and jewelry worth millions.

That's why this stretch of Florida's central Atlantic shore is known as The Treasure Coast. The McClarty Museum, in a state park here, fills in the history.

It tells how, in 1715, a Spanish fleet returning to Cadiz with the booty of Spain's South American colonies was riding the Gulf Stream north, prior to the Atlantic crossing, when it was overtaken by a hurricane and driven on to the reef.

Eleven of the 12 galleons floundered. Some survivors -- no one seems to know how many -- made it to shore while the 12th ship sailed back to Havana to raise teams of salvors.

The survivors set up camp on the very spot where the McClarty Museum now stands and waited for the salvors to arrive. Then, by hold-your-breath diving over the next few years, they recovered perhaps 50 per cent of the treasure.

Then the whole thing was forgotten. Forgotten until the 1950s when the late Kip Wagner came on the scene. As he tells it on a video in the museum, he was walking on the beach when he found some "flat stones." He rubbed one and found it was a gold piece.

He formed a salvage company and soon his divers were bringing up gold ingots, pieces-of-eight, emeralds, jewelry, rare porcelain, even a treasure chest. On one occasion, he says, they found 3,500 gold coins in just a few days.

Wagner died in 1972 and his salvage efforts wound down. But, the video tells us, "untold millions remain,'' for some of the 11 wrecks haven't yet been found.

Exhibits in the museum include some items of the treasure and more mundane artifacts such as a cannon, musket balls, armour, a rosary, swords and plates, and bowls.

There's more treasure in the Mel Fisher Museum, in the town of Sebastian, on the mainland nearby. Fisher, who died in 1998, was Florida's -- and maybe the world's -- most famous treasure hunter, the man who found the wreck of the fabulously rich treasure ship Nuestra Senora de Atocha off Key West in 1985. He carried on the search here for some years after Wagner's death.

In the museum shop you can buy original Spanish "reales," pieces-of-eight and facsimiles of jewelry taken from the wrecks.

For more information, visit the websites atocha1622.com/mcclarty.htm and melfisher.com. Tourist information on Florida is available at visitflorida.com.


Hog wild for St. Kitts

Under the Tuscan sun

CHIANTI, Italy -- On a cold winter day in 2007, my sister asked me if I'd like to join her on a trip to Tuscany. I didn't have to think long to give her my answer -- yes!

Now, 18 months later, we're on our way to Muricciaglia, our villa in Tuscany. After a couple of days in Umbria, we have decided to take the country roads, as opposed to the superstrada. This proves to be a slower route, but very rewarding. We get a feel for life in small-town Italy as we meander through villages and pass farmland with corn and sunflower fields on either side of the narrow roadway.

As we leave Umbria and enter Tuscany, we pass the hilled town of Cortona, which is famous from the movie Under The Tuscan Sun. That is in fact what got us interested in coming to Italy, but our villa beckons so we must remember Cortona as we saw it on film.

OLIVE GROVES

The countryside is subtly changing, with grapevines and olive groves now appearing and the road is beginning to twist and turn as we go upward into the hills. We believe we have found the zoom-zoom road from a certain car commercial and at this point I am glad I'm in the backseat enjoying the view and not behind the wheel. Fancy European cars and motorcycles whiz by us as we travel through ancient towns. We have arrived in Tuscany and just have to locate our villa.

The villa we have booked for a week's stay came highly recommended by our travel agent. Muricciaglia is ideally located just off the road from Castellina to Radda in Il Chianti. Our hosts, Mimma and Franco Ferrando, have provided excellent directions and we find it easily. As we turn off the highway and onto the gravel road to the villa, my sister and I look at each other and smile -- we're finally here!

Mimma welcome us with a glass of wine and then gives us a tour. Muricciaglia sits on 65 hectares of woodland, olive groves and a small vineyard. There have been dwellings on this property for more than 500 years. There are two villas for rent -- we are staying in the Fienile, an old hay barn. It has two bedrooms, two modern bathrooms, a loft with twin beds, a living room, a modern kitchen and laundry facilities.

There is a beautiful infinity pool all guests share. The temps this week are a bit cool and the pool is not heated, so we'll have to settle for sitting by the pool and not in the pool. Mimma is a chef that travels the world teaching the fine art of Italian cooking and offers classes to her guests. We did not book a class this time and promise ourselves to do so on our next visit.

The location of our villa is perfect for day trips to explore Tuscan towns. On our first full day in Tuscany we make the short trip to Panzano for Sunday market day.

There also happens to be a wine festival taking place, so the town is bustling. We find a parking spot on the edge of the narrow roadway and walk the short distance into town. The market place has vendors selling goods ranging from leather purses to clothing to cheese. We stop at a butcher shop and purchase a pork loin for dinner. Upon leaving Panzano we find a quaint roadside restaurant to have lunch at. We dine outdoors, enjoying fresh homemade pasta and washing it down with wine. Our view is that of a painting -- hills covered in vineyards with the dark purple grapes hanging heavy on the vines and large stone villas surrounded by tall cypresses.

The next day we decide to journey the 20 km to Siena. The medieval historic centre rises high above the rest of the city. After we park our car we travel up five escalators to take us through the ancient walls. Following the narrow streets lined with shops we eventually find ourselves at the famous Piazza del Campo. The famous sloped square is surrounded by restaurants and vendors selling postcards and souvenirs.

Twice a year, horse races take place in the piazza. Since the middle ages, representatives of the town districts have competed in the race around il Campo. Spectators fill the bowl of the piazza while the horses and riders in colourful costumes run around the perimeter three times trying to become the winner of the prestigious Palio di Siena. These events take place in July and August. I can picture the horses tearing around the piazza with the spectators cheering for their favourite.

BREATHTAKING

We tour the famous gothic cathedral, which was built between 1196 and 1215. The workmanship is unbelievable. The inlaid marble floor and marble pillars are breathtaking. Before lunch we manage to find some time to shop and purchase some leather purses and wallets. The selection is great and the prices seem quite reasonable. We dine outdoors at a small restaurant in the Piazza del Campo. We again enjoy fresh pasta and a bottle of local wine and take in the sights and sounds of the piazza.

Another day trip takes us to San Gimignano, a walled medieval town with 14 towers. At one time there were 72 of these towers, which are believed to symbolize the wealth and power of the medieval families that resided here. This is another wonderful town to explore the winding, narrow streets and go in and out of the numerous shops. The small stores offer a great selection of linens, leather goods, ceramics, cheeses and wine. We spend a few hours here sightseeing, shopping and having a delicious lunch at Hotel Bel Soggiorno, which offers a great view of the surrounding countryside.

Upon leaving San Gimignano we journey the short distance to Monteriggioni. You can see this impressive walled town in the distance long before you arrive. It was built in the 1200s and has not changed much over time. There is a church, a couple of restaurants, small shops and homes all within the stone walls. It is a marvel to see how dwellings have survived the wars and elements over time.

On our last full day in Tuscany we venture out to discover Volpaia, a tiny hamlet up in the hills behind Radda. After thinking we've taken the wrong turn we end up on the correct route -- yet another narrow, winding road to the village. Volpaia is like most towns in Tuscany, you will see your destination long before you reach it. Most towns are perched high on hills. This was done in order to protect them from rival neighbouring towns centuries ago.

Volpaia proves to be a most interesting stop. We enjoy a cappuccino in the small town square before venturing out to walk the narrow cobblestone streets. We pick up some locally made wine and vinegars before stopping for lunch at one of the two restaurants. Our view is again spectacular and the food equally good.

Most restaurants offer indoor and outdoor dining and we choose outdoor as often as we can. The food in Tuscany is everything I thought it would be. Every restaurant offers a wide selection of fresh pasta plus different meats. Pork, wild boar and rabbit appear quite often on the menus, roasted or in stews. The wine menus are extensive, highlighting the Classico Chianti, for which the region is famous. We take every opportunity to sample the local favourites either on our plates or in our glasses.

The day is still young when we depart Volpaia so we decide to try and find a castle we were told we should not miss. We head in the direction of Gaiole and a few kilometres further down the road we find ourselves at the Castello di Brolio in Chianti.

Built in 1000 A.D. the castle has a long, colourful history. The Ricasoli family have owned it since 1141 and continue to live in a portion of the enormous fortress. Nearby, the family owns a winery that produces the famous Brolio wine.

We walk around the outside of the 50-foot-high walls before entering the gate and touring inside, where a chapel houses generations of tombs of the Ricasoli family. We continue along the south terrace, where on a clear day you can see Siena in the distance. Below is a view of the gardens, olive groves and vineyards. The surrounding hills are covered in cypresses and conifers. You can almost picture the scene centuries ago as rival armies would assault the castle attempting to gain possession. This happened many times until the mid 1500s.

Our week-long stay in Tuscany is over much too soon, even though we still have two weeks in Italy, visiting Florence and then Rome. I think back on the friendly people we've met, delicious foods we ate and the unbelievable sights we saw and start thinking of a return trip to Tuscany.

Hog wild for St. Kitts

ST. KITTS -- An oversized pig lives on a beach here, playful monkeys frolic everywhere and tourists hide out in Elephant's Ears. Did we mention the goat who was locked up for drunkenness? Welcome to St. Kitts!

A lot of local people told me Cockleshell Bay was their favourite beach, so naturally I went to have a look. It was on this golden stretch of sand that I first encountered Wilbur. He was sleeping in the shade of a palm tree -- snoring.

Not many beaches have a resident pig, let alone one that weighs 317 kilos. Wilbur is somewhat of an island mascot, adored by tourists and locals alike. I watched as people took turns petting the hog and even hugging him while posing for photos, none of which seemed to disturb the sleeping Wilbur.

A few hours later, in the heat of the midday sun, the friendly hog got up and waded into the water up to his knees. A small crowd gathered on the beach to watch. One man began pouring water on Wilbur's back to cool him off. The pig seemed to enjoy that.

"That's got to be the biggest pig in the world," an astonished tourist remarked. Wilbur gets lots of attention, and it would seem, lots of food -- mostly leftover scraps from the Reggae Beach Bar and Grill, owned by Gary Pereira, Wilbur's keeper.

"He's a very smart pig," insisted Pereira praising his beloved pet, which he got from a friend seven years ago.

More recently, the restaurateur has begun caring for a baby goat named Mocha and an 8-month-old green -- or Vervet -- monkey called Oliver, both of which were abandoned by their mothers.

"It's like an orphanage of animals here," mused Pereira.

Oliver sometimes wanders around freely on the beach and other times he's in a big cage for his own protection (the Vervets are very territorial).

When I returned a few days later, Wilbur was napping (again), Oliver the monkey was playing on the beach with Lion Paw the dog, and Mocha the goat was, oddly, in Oliver's cage.

"She got into somebody's rum punch," explained Heidi Fagerberg, who takes care of the animals when she's not giving sailing lessons. "We found her swerving and staggering, so we put her in the cage until she sobers up."

They say there are twice as many monkeys on the island as people. Most of them are wild. But quite a few, like Oliver and another one I encountered at the sugar mill ruins of Wingfield Estate, are pets.

This Vervet, named Bruce, seemed to take an interest in grooming any visitors it got close to. If you visit, don't be surprised if you walk away with a new hairdo.

Two things you shouldn't miss while on the island are a trip on the St. Kitts Scenic Train (where you'll see old sugar mills, villages and monkeys) and a visit to Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It had been such a silly week, with Wilbur, the monkeys and all, that when I saw one of those wooden soldier cut-outs at the hilltop fort, I poked my head through it just like the kids.

I wasn't the only one "hamming" it up though. On a Sugar Plantation Heritage Tour with Greg's Safari, one of our stops was a hilltop viewpoint where our knowledgeable guide Greg Pereira, Gary's brother, pointed out some giant leaves called Elephant's Ears. One woman got the idea to climb in behind these green giants while her spouse snapped her photo. Soon, everyone else on the tour was lining up to do the same. If Wilbur and Oliver could talk I'm sure they'd approve.

For more information on St. Kitts, visit the St. Kitts Tourism Authority at stkittstourism.kn. Greg's Safaris offers three tours: Mount Liamuiga Volcano Hike, Sugar Plantation Heritage Tour, and The Valley of Giants Rainforest Hike. Check gregsafaris.com. For more on Reggae Beach Bar and Grill, visit reggaebeachbar.com.

WRITER@INTERLOG.COM


Under the Tuscan sun

Treasure Coast lives up to name

SEBASTIAN INLET, Fla. -- From the boardwalk behind the McClarty Museum, I could see on the beach below, a man moving about with a metal detector.

I suspected he was not looking for a ring or a bracelet dropped by a vacationer. He was probably hoping to find a gold doubloon or maybe some silver pieces-of-eight dating from the early 18th century.

Such treasures are still being found on the beaches of this barrier island. But it's out to sea a little bit, just past the submerged reef, that the real treasure lies: Gold, silver and jewelry worth millions.

That's why this stretch of Florida's central Atlantic shore is known as The Treasure Coast. The McClarty Museum, in a state park here, fills in the history.

It tells how, in 1715, a Spanish fleet returning to Cadiz with the booty of Spain's South American colonies was riding the Gulf Stream north, prior to the Atlantic crossing, when it was overtaken by a hurricane and driven on to the reef.

Eleven of the 12 galleons floundered. Some survivors -- no one seems to know how many -- made it to shore while the 12th ship sailed back to Havana to raise teams of salvors.

The survivors set up camp on the very spot where the McClarty Museum now stands and waited for the salvors to arrive. Then, by hold-your-breath diving over the next few years, they recovered perhaps 50 per cent of the treasure.

Then the whole thing was forgotten. Forgotten until the 1950s when the late Kip Wagner came on the scene. As he tells it on a video in the museum, he was walking on the beach when he found some "flat stones." He rubbed one and found it was a gold piece.

He formed a salvage company and soon his divers were bringing up gold ingots, pieces-of-eight, emeralds, jewelry, rare porcelain, even a treasure chest. On one occasion, he says, they found 3,500 gold coins in just a few days.

Wagner died in 1972 and his salvage efforts wound down. But, the video tells us, "untold millions remain,'' for some of the 11 wrecks haven't yet been found.

Exhibits in the museum include some items of the treasure and more mundane artifacts such as a cannon, musket balls, armour, a rosary, swords and plates, and bowls.

There's more treasure in the Mel Fisher Museum, in the town of Sebastian, on the mainland nearby. Fisher, who died in 1998, was Florida's -- and maybe the world's -- most famous treasure hunter, the man who found the wreck of the fabulously rich treasure ship Nuestra Senora de Atocha off Key West in 1985. He carried on the search here for some years after Wagner's death.

In the museum shop you can buy original Spanish "reales," pieces-of-eight and facsimiles of jewelry taken from the wrecks.

For more information, visit the websites atocha1622.com/mcclarty.htm and melfisher.com. Tourist information on Florida is available at visitflorida.com.


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