During three days on the island, I encounter them at a national park, a sanctuary, an open-air market in the capital city Kralendijk, and even in somebody's garden! And I'm not even visiting in the spring, which is nesting season and the best time to see the birds.
Turns out the flamingo is the national bird of Bonaire (as well as a few other countries). The island is home to no fewer than 10,000 of these graceful creatures and is one of the largest flamingo breeding grounds in the western hemisphere.
In Kralendijk, a flamingo in flight is the logo on the sign for the tourist information office, where you can pick up good maps and brochures. The bird is also immortalized in plaster-work art on the facade of at least one building, while at local shops and open-air craft markets, the flamingo seems to be the creature most frequently featured on the vast array of souvenirs from beach towels to salt and pepper shakers.
Yet, for all that, the country actually has another claim to fame -- as a world-class diving (and snorkelling) destination. Its spectacular coral reefs and tropical fish are part of the Bonaire Marine Park, which incorporates the island's entire coastline and the nearby islet of Klein Bonaire.
Although it doesn't have as many long sandy beaches as other Caribbean islands (most of the beaches here are full of coral), it makes up for it with its marine life, laid-back vibe, and -- for an island its size -- several surprisingly good restaurants.
One of these is Sunset Bar and Grill, which claims to have the best burgers on the island. But for a true measure of chef Kirk Gosden's impressive culinary skills, I'd recommend items such as tortellini, seafood chowder or spotted lobster accompanied by an exceptional shellfish infused butter. Divine!
Located in the southern Caribbean, 81 km from Venezuela, Bonaire is small -- only 290 sq km and a population of about 15,000 -- with an absence of large-scale tourism development. That is part of its appeal and one reason for its high visitor return rate. Together with Aruba and Curacao, it forms a group referred to as the ABC islands, all of which share Dutch heritage.
Few other Caribbean islands are as zealous about protecting their environment as Bonaire. On one snorkelling excursion, our guide warns us that anyone who damages the fragile slow-growing coral by touching or standing on the reef will be asked to return to the boat. And the Flamingo Reserve, on the southern tip of the island, is off-limits to vistors (in order not to disturb the birds) although it's possible to spot them from the road, as we did.
Flamingos gravitate to the island's many salt pans, which contain their food source -- the tiny pink brine shrimp that give the birds their pink colour. Washington Slagbaai National Park has at least seven salt pans, and we see the birds at a few, but the varied natural landscape is the real attraction.
It's possible to hike or drive through the 14,820-hectare park, which is on the site of a former plantation that once produced aloe and charcoal. Short on time,
we choose to drive, passing dramatic rock formations, picturesque and secluded beaches, a blow hole, a lake and Mt. Brandaris, Bonaire's highest peak at 241 metres.
It wasn't surprising to see flamingos in the park but what are they doing in Yenny Rijna's backyard? "Yenny's Garden" is an offbeat visitor attraction just off Kralendijk's main street. Its entrance is guarded by life-sized dolls, including one seated on a motorcycle and another of a woman with a bowl of fruit on her head. Many more of these characters, wearing castoff clothes and assorted jewellery, are found inside the gate, along with an eclectic collection of animal skulls, conch shells, paintings of local scenes, and kitschy decorations that sit atop cactus plants.
Around the back, past the turtle pond and near the well, several flamingos are drinking water from a kiddie pool. Yenny, who is throwing fish pellets to the birds, and speaking to them as if they're her pets, tells me her husband isn't crazy about her pastime of turning other people's trash into art, but that her grandchildren love the fantasy land she has created. A few curious visitors also stop in every day.
"Some people come just to see the flamingos," she admits.
I'm not surprised.
For more, check tourismbonaire.com.
