"There's so much hype and fun and colour," she says. "You see a sea of green bodies, and you don't know how people get so creative. You spot watermelon heads, and will not be able to buy a watermelon in town today. Last year a guy in 30-degree-Celsius weather wore a long fur coat, dyed green!"
The Delta (all 174 rooms sold out) represents a fan microcosm, the restaurant and front desk staff in Rider colours, in support of a team that has played in an amazing 11 consecutive western finals and five Grey Cup games, winning more games from 1966 to 1976 than any professional team in the world.
At Mosaic Stadium, Steve Mazurak, VP of sales and marketing, says, "Here, the emphasis is on fan, not record or players. There's no NHL or pro soccer, so football is significant, despite being the smallest CFL market. Our campaigns are geared to the fans."
I witness this walking past the nearby business headquarters, where there are more huge pictures of fans displayed than those of players. Their website -- riderville.com -- promotes "fan of the day" pictures and the Rider Oath, which seems somewhat sacred.
Sheila Kelly, executive director of the Saskatchewan Sports Hall of Fame concurs with the religious theme: "Game day IS a pilgrimage, not just for those in Saskatchewan but ex-pats from the United States who coordinate holiday schedules to take in a football game."
The Hall's current exhibit showcases 100 years of Saskatchewan football.
"The Riders are the only pro sports team that wears the provincial name, so it unites everyone in Rider pride," explains Kelly. "It's also a prairie thing. We think nothing of jumping into a car and driving for four hours. It's just what we do."
Mazurak reports they sell $250 shares, part of the public team ownership concept adapted from the Green Bay Packers in Wisconsin. It's similar to a "membership" purchase at Ontario's Stratford Shakespearian Festival, allowing benefits, discounts, payment options etc., but no financial return.
"Our merchandising embraces technology. Last year, sales topped $10,000,000, placing Saskatchewan in the midpoint of NFL teams and ahead of NHL teams!" Kelly says. "The economy, for the first time in my lifetime makes us a 'have' province, and for the last three years with the team performing well, that gives everybody a reason to be upbeat and proud."
Craig Reynolds, Roughrider's CFO, reports $38 million in total gross revenues in 2010. Not only did the club sell out its regular-season games, but total gate receipts were $11.3 million, surpassing the previous year's record by 9%.
Amanda Cachia, former curator at Regina's Dunlap Art Gallery, suggests, "There are two large banners on each side of Mosaic Stadium with prominent players George Reed and Ron Lancaster wearing the green jersey with bold capitalized words emblazoned across the top: PRIDE LIVES HERE. This captures the relationship that the Saskatchewan Roughriders fans have for their team."
I watch a documentary that reveals after Grey Cup victories, the Riders returned home each time to their stadium, where 10,000 loyal fans waited in sub zero weather.
Do the fans travel to Winnipeg and Calgary, and how do they get there?
"Yes and by any means!" Kelly laughs. "There was a classic Internet picture last year with the Grey Cup in Edmonton, several combines roaring across prairie wheat fields with the caption -- 'Rider fans on way to the Grey Cup.'"
At the Hall of Fame, Ken Danby's iconic painting of a Rider centre, quarterback and two backs graces the entrance. There are more paintings by local artists, Joel and Drew Hunter, but the big surprise is Rider colours were originally black and red. Cash-strapped and their existence in peril in 1947, Regina businessman R.J. Fyffe, while in Chicago, came across a sports shop selling a set of used football jerseys at a giveaway price. The catch -- they were green and white. The rest is history.
"Sounds corny, but that's what happened," Kelly says.
Mazurak says, "We are in a bubble here with a strong economy, and agriculture, formerly number one, is now three or four behind potash, uranium and oil." He emphasizes the importance of game-days sponsors, a sizeable female fan base and security -- fans are not unruly so it's a great family outing.
Precisely what I encounter -- happy campers gathered in an adjacent roped-off field with drinks in hand, PlayStations for the kids, artists painting faces and room to show off outlandish Rider outfits. During the game, there are fireworks after scores, a steady stream of prizes and fan photos displayed on the scoreboard.
Before the game, I encounter George Reed, one of the aforementioned two gods resident on the huge stadium banners. Reed maintains most Rider rushing and scoring records, and now works for Casino Regina. Besieged for autographs, he still gives back to the fans.
A symbol of Rider Nation solidarity was my encounter with a three-generation family of fans: Wayne Harker, 69, fan for 55-plus years, son Dave Harker, 45, fan for 35-plus years and his son, Nolan Wilson-Harker, 7, fan since birth. Wayne was born in Regina and grew-up in what is now the north end zone. He watched games from his garage roof as a boy. Retired, he lives in Edmonton, but has remained true to the spirit of Rider football.
The game itself? Sold-out as usual: 29,048 fans. The crowd roars in support of their defence while the Argos control the ball for most of the first half, racking up a 12-7 lead.
"Don't worry," says the young man beside me. "We're a second half team; we'll come back."
And they do, winning 30-20. Fans merrily stream out of the stadium in a steady river of green and all is well again in this remarkable Rider Nation.
If You Go to Regina
Where to stay: Regina Delta Hotel. I was on the 24th floor and could see the entire city.
deltahotels.com/delta-regina
Saskatchewan Roughriders: See riderville.com.
What to see: Saskatchewan Sports Hall of Fame and Museum, sshfm.com.
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