I'm swatting mosquitoes -- this is a spring training run, and the dogs can hardly wait to burn up a dirt road hauling their lightweight buggy.
It's early June beside Prince Albert National Park (PANP), and the dogs are the stars of Muir's Sundog Sled Excursions (sundog.sk.ca).
Twenty-four paws scatter Saskatchewan sand, Muir's enthusiasm is infectious, and the buggy ride is suprisingly enjoyable; but then the region is rich with rewarding twists and turns.
This year is the centennial of Parks Canada, and while PANP may not have the in-your-face glamour of the great mountain parks it is a gorgeous place, an hour north of the city of Prince Albert, and absolutely deserves to be seen. There is ample here to explore and enjoy in the centre of this quietly booming province, and history abounds.
The park was established in 1927, its almost-4,000 sq. km straddling the southern edge of Canada's great boreal forest. The transition from prairie to bush supports a wealth of wildlife, including the only free-roaming population of plains bison still in their natural range. We'll go look for them shortly, but first more on the park.
Arguably PANP's most famous resident was Grey Owl -- the Englishman Archie Belaney -- who lived and wrote in the park from 1931 to 1938 and died there that year. His valuable conservation work, factual writing and lectures tend to be overshadowed by the elaborate fiction concerning his origins. Belaney's cabin is in the park.
First Nations activity in the area dates back 4,000 years and possibly as much as 7,500.
The scenic townsite of Waskesiu is the hub of the park, and 200,000 visitors flow through there each year to experience the interpretive centres, and explore the many trails, lakes and views. Waskesiu Marina (waskesiumarina.com) offers exceptional, educational tours of the Hanging Heart Lakes area.
We have come, in part, to try to see bison, on the west side of the park near the small community of Big River on Hwy. 55.
The answer to "where do bison roam?" is "pretty much wherever they want," Gord Vaadeland knows this well: The 3,238 hectares of his Sturgeon River cattle and horse ranch abut the park and the bison meander on and off the property at will.
Vaadeland, whose Norwegian family settled there decades ago, takes visitors out on horseback to observe the bison. He's a smart, friendly character with a deep sense of stewardship for the animals. Did I mention he's also an official Sidekick on TV's Mantracker series?
Riding trails through trembling aspen forest, with the prospect of plains bison (or elk, bear, wolf, deer) at any moment, is one heck of way to spend a morning. The family run ranch offers many other activities too. Check out sturgeonriverranch.com.
Nearby, pay a visit to Ness Creek, eclectic home of the four-day Ness Creek Music Festival where every July 3,000 souls savour live bands, workshops and "community sharing." Set in hundreds of hectares of forest, the festival promotes all Canadian arts, particularly Saskatchewan talent (nesscreek.com). The place has a Sixties time-warp feel. My only regret: I was a month too early for the big show.
For direct contrast, and the absolute height of luxury and haute cuisine, Elk Ridge Resort is the flagship hostelry in the park area and a stunning experience, especially considering its relative remoteness. Golfers will revel. See elkridgeresort.com.
En route back to Saskatoon, past open fields where deer seem omni-present and five-foot tall sandhill cranes dance, immerse yourself in the intrigue, battles and politics of Louis Riel and the Northwest Resistance of 1885 by visiting the Batoche national historic site and nearby Duck Lake. It's just south of Prince Albert. Let the admirable Trails of 1885 project (trailsof1885.com) be your guide. And don't miss the revived Hudson's Bay post at nearby Fort Carlton.
GETTING THERE
WestJet and Air Canada both fly daily to Saskatoon. From the "City of Bridges" on the South Saskatchewan River it's an easy 200 km straight north to the park. Rent a car and get going.
