I was given 48 hours. Not behind bars, mind you, but on the loose in an attractive city that's one of Ontario's most historic and prosperous.
Part of Kingston's charm lies in location. It faces the eastern end of Lake Ontario -- some sailing events for the 1976 Olympics were staged there -- at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Cataraqui rivers.
Part lies in its handsome limestone buildings. Some are 200 years old, but Kingston's beginnings are even older. Founded as a French fort in 1673, it was renamed in 1783 and was Canada's capital from 1841 to 1844. Sir John A. Macdonald, our first prime minister, called it home.
The city is said to be almost recession-proof, thanks to the payrolls of the penal system, the armed forces (CFB Kingston and Royal Military College) and a major university (Queens).
It's evident in a core area that has the vibrancy so many communities' downtowns had before they were "malled'' to death. It helps explain why Kingston has 200-plus restaurants, said to be the highest number per capita in the country.
For a quick overview, hop aboard one of the green and cream Confederation Tour trolleys owned and operated by the chamber of commerce.
The route includes a square behind city hall where there's been a weekly market since 1801, stately St. George Cathedral, a 54-room limestone mansion on King St., Queen's University's impressive campus, and Royal Military College, where our guide recommends visiting Fort Frederick Tower, one of four Martello towers the British built in the 1840s to defend Kingston.
The trolley tour takes only 50 minutes, leaving time for other attractions in and near Kingston. Consider these:
Fort Henry. Our trolley guide called the sunset ceremony Wednesday nights during July and August "spectacular.'' The fort runs several theme tours. The newest focuses on daring escapes by prisoners from the 1800s through the First and Second World Wars.
Canada's Penitentiary Museum. Not for the fainthearted. Some of the shockers are from the 1800s: the Water Bath, used in the U.S. until one prisoner died; The Box, in which inmates, mainly women, were confined as long as nine hours and which was used frequently in Kingston. But at least one, The Strapping Bench, was used as recently as 1969, at Manitoba's Stony Mountain Penitentiary.
There's an exact replica of the cells in the maximum security institution right across the street. Segregated inmates such as Paul Bernardo and ex-colonel Russell Williams spend 23 hours a day there in one of these. I stepped inside, closed the door, and found myself thinking capital punishment would be more humane.
A Thousand Islands cruise. Kingston 1000 Islands Cruises does trips from downtown, but departures from Gananoque or Rockport, east of Kingston, are more scenic.
Rideau Canal, Ontario's first UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jones Falls Lockstation, less than 50 km northeast of Kingston, is the "jewel of the system,'' according to a Rideau insider. The Ontario and Quebec tour operators I was with certainly loved it. Take Highway 15 to tiny Morton, then county road 11.
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IF YOU GO
ACCOMMODATION: Downtown is my preference. The new, all-suites Residence Inn quoted me $199, including hot breakfast, for midweek in early May ($20 more for a water view). The newly renovated Confederation Place Hotel, down the street, quoted $127, including continental breakfast, $15 more for a water view.
EAT/DRINK: Locals recommended Morrison's for breakfast, Woodenheads for pizza, Pilot House for fish 'n chips. All are right downtown. Our group dined well at Residence Inn's West Seventy 6 Grill. I enjoyed a pint at Kingston Brewing Co., 34 Clarence St.
INFORMATION: Phone 1-866-665-3326, visit www.kingstoncanada.com.
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Update The Gatineau-Wakefield steam train mentioned in the Aug. 6 column has suspended operations because of track damage.
Doug English can be reached at denglishtravel@gmail.com or by mail c/o London Free Press, P.O.E. Box 2280, London, Ont. N6A 4G1.
