There's no question the little port is pretty, but it's been overrun by dazed tourists and is lined with shops selling inexpensive souvenirs.
No sign of ritzy hotels or luxury boutiques. The dolce vita waits further on, and in particular, higher up.
Capri is a mythical spot for tourists and this island in the Bay of Naples has held on to all of its allure over the years.
In the 1950s and '60s, all the stars of the day made there way here, but Capri's popularity can be traced back much farther. The Romans were relaxing here 2,000 years ago.
You have to go up to get a real sense of all this, leaving the port by way of a funicular. Journey complete, you arrive in a small square, right in the heart of the city of Capri, with luxury hotels lining the streets that spread out in all directions. This, is the realm of the rich and famous and it's easy to get swept up in it all.
SERENE SCENE
Will we spot any celebrities today? That guy with the big camera trying to look nonchalant as he hugs the wall -- probably paparazzi. But the game gets old quickly and our days spent in Capri have no celebrity run-ins to speak of.
In reality, Capri doesn't just offer the high life. There's also the island's beautiful scenery: Coastal cliffs, tall pines, craggy terrain, azure water and postcard panoramas.
The serenity of the island claims you in no time. The streets are so narrow, regular cars can't get through, leaving small electric vehicles to do the delivery work and garbage disposal. Tidy villas of various sizes dot the landscape, with fragrant flowers cascading from their walls.
The many fragile-looking lemon trees often look ready to break under the weight of their fruit. Locals still greet people they pass in the street. This is the Italy we know and love, a place of warm human rapport.
Many trails hug the rocky contours of Capri's coast. Several natural attractions can be visited along the way, including the arco naturale (natural arch) and the faraglioni, three big pillars of rock that jut from the sea.
The northeastern tip of the island is home to the ruins of Emperor Tiberius' grandest residence, the Villa Jovis, built over 2,000 years ago.
Elsewhere on the coastal path, you'll find the Villa Malaparte. Built in 1937 for an Italian writer, the structure remains a reference point in modern architecture and has been the set for several famous films, including Jean-Luc Godard's Le Mepris, starring Brigitte Bardot and Michel Piccoli.
The island has two villages to speak of: Capri and Anacapri. The latter is nothing like the former. With much less tourism, Anacapri has the feel of a sleepy Italian village.
Capri, it seems, is far from being a relic from the past. The island's true nature is alive and well, ready to be revealed if you only take the time to seek it out.
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